Culture Shock

I had my first "culture-shock" moment yesterday.

No, not the kind of culture shock that makes me want to leave Morocco. Not even the kind of culture shock that makes me miss home intensely. It was the kind of situation where no matter how long I was in it, I couldn't quite get used to it. It was that kind of culture shock.

I went to a hammam with a sweet Moroccan friend, Oumaima. A hammam, is a public bathhouse. I knew that they were very popular here in Morocco and that it was imperative that I visit one while I was here. But I wasn't quite sure what to expect.

I guess it doesn't matter. I don't think any amount of information would have totally prepared me for the nakedness and the beautiful lack of shame displayed in the hammam. Women bathed without any thought of covering themselves, and I kept thinking I'd get used to it, until my eyes shifted from the ceiling or a wall to a person. And then I realized I still wasn't used to it.

Oumaima was wonderful and talked me through the elaborate bathing steps.

I was shocked by all of the dead skin that came off of me. Spaghetti, she called it. She curiously asked me, "What do you do with your dead skin in America?" Honestly? "I don't do anything with it," I replied. Her mouth dropped and I just laughed.

I couldn't imagine how soft my skin would be if I went to the hammam every week, as was customary for many Moroccan women.

Afterwards, Oumaima made sure I was fully wrapped up and warm so that the change of temperatures wouldn't mess with me (I guess Colombians would get along just fine here). We headed back to her house, napped on the divans (like couches) a bit and then had a wonderful cous cous lunch.

After all, it was Cous Cous Friday.

On Language

It's the last day of derija classes. I guess it's about time I delve into the specifics of the Arab language... it might help explain the language barrier some and hopefully proves to be interesting at the very least :) 

I've been asked a couple of times why I'm taking Moroccan Colloquial Arabic if I took Arabic in school... wouldn't I just pick it up by living there?

Well, yes, I suppose I could eventually just "pick it up," but Moroccan Colloquial Arabic (also known as derija) is a language in and of itself. Yes, it is a form of Arabic, but it is different enough that some native Arabic speakers from other regions (the Gulf, for example) may not understand derija. Derija is a dialect blending French, Arabic and some Spanish. I was told Spanish was part of the blend, but I haven't been fond of how few Spanish words I see.

I've been taking Modern Standard Arabic (MSA) for the last five semesters. Problem is, no one speaks MSA to each other in the Arab world. You can't learn MSA, or fusha, through immersion. Each country or region has its on colloquial dialect. The news is presented in MSA and some other official programs such as National Geographic is also in MSA. MSA is taught in school, so little kids don't understand it and because it isn't used on a daily basis, many aren't comfortably speaking it back and forth. However, most people could understand it if need be.

Though it isn't a perfect analogy, imagine someone walked up to you and spoke Shakespearean English to you. You'd probably understand it. However, you probably wouldn't be as comfortable reproducing it and speaking it back to them. I think a similar thing happens with MSA and many Arabic speakers. Some, however, are really good at MSA and enjoy it, though most of those with whom I've interacted, aren't shy in expressing their distaste for MSA.

Derija feels like a language of quickness. Short vowels found in MSA are often replaced with sukuuns, essentially smashing three or four consonant sounds together. For example the verb "to write" in MSA is "ka-ta-ba," but in derija it becomes "k-t-b." Nope, I'm not kidding. Negating verbs is done by adding an "m" to the beginning and an "shh" to the end. This becomes tricky when stringing together many, many, many consonants.

I have loved taking the intensive crash course, but I must say that I am relieved to no longer have five hours a day of this language. It is exhausting.

I have stumbled through conversations, laughed my way through situations and managed to make do so far. Hopefully, derija becomes a bit easier after a while :)

Birthday in Morocco

I celebrated my 21st birthday in Morocco this past week.

To be honest, I wasn't oober excited. If I could pick to be anywhere, with anyone, it'd be with my friends and family from back home (any home, really). I would have loved to spend the day with Lucas and enjoying time with loved ones.

But clearly, I was an ocean away and five time zones apart. Not quite an easy feat.

So, I was bracing myself for an "okay" kind of day.

But it was fabulous :)

My friends in the CIEE program were great, wishing me happy birthday as soon as they saw me. I wasn't allowed to pay for lunch and I was constantly asked what I wanted to do. I was sung "happy birthday" in derija class and our teacher gave me a cute little key chain. After class ended, I was surprised with a birthday cake and really felt appreciated :) They sang "happy birthday" in English, Arabic, French and Spanish (just for me =P )!

Afterwards I headed home and was looking forward to Skyping my dad (with whom I share a birthday) and hopefully getting to talk to Lucas as well. My sweet host family surprised me with a birthday cake, candles and a beautiful gift. I was so overwhelmed I was almost brought to tears. My family sang me happy birthday in Arabic, Amazigh, English (soooo cute) and Korean!! So yes, it was a day of many languages :D

Nope, I didn't spend the day giggling with Lucas or reminiscing with friends from home, but I definitely had a good day, enjoying exactly where I am.